Re: Sealing The Dome
- To: domesteading at sculptors dot com
- Subject: Re: Sealing The Dome
- From: RoConroy at aol dot com
- Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 12:56:35 EDT
In a message dated 98-07-28 20:54:41 EDT, Malcom you write:
<< Does anyone have any experience with
elastomeric paint? How reliable is
this stuff? >>
I used it on a 24' diameter workshop dome. I tried to save money and
use 1/2 the thickness recommended and ended up having to recoat the dome to
the proper thickness. It is fairly cheap and easy to apply and repair, but I
think it will require simple, but constant maintenance. Since building that
24' dome, I have redesigned the sheathing to come together with a V groove
between panels to allow the elastomeric caulking of the joint to work better.
Most of my original leaks occurred where the joist was too narrow to provide
the proper amount of caulk.
I used it primarily because I could preapply the elastomeric to the dome
panels before erection. This can be done under good conditions. Then all I
had to do was caulk the joints after assembling.
As for simple to install, and a reasonably priced alternative, I used
"Seal & Peel" for my 32' diameter dome. It cost $2000 in materials for the
dome and kneewall. This seemed high compared to 3 tab conventional, but there
is no comparison when it comes to labor. Conventional 3 tab roofing might be
cheap and fairly long lasting, but you had better be prepared for more work
than hind sight would reasonably condone. The warrantee for the "Seal & Peel"
is only 10 years, but I figure it will last 15.
Both products are highly reflective whichis very desirable. A
conventional roof system can absorb the sun's heat and radiate it directly
into the dome through conventional, non reflective insulation.
Conventional 3 tab roofing shouldn't be used without a sealed
underlayment on any roof with a pitch of less than 4:12. This includes the
top portion of the popular 3 frequency domes.
If you can afford it, I recommend the "Seal & Peel".
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