Re: Conroy Building



In a message dated 01-07-21 09:25:07 EDT, Dan G wrote:

<< A few follow up questions on Robert's small building:
 1) Could you describe the R-23 "compound" insulation? Standard
 fiberglass bat, extruded styro, sprayed on foam?  I'd like to hear
 more about what you used and how it was hung.
 2) Likewise the "high tech" roofing - what is it and how applied (the
 peel and seal stuff you mention on the webpage you attached) ?  Is it
 something that has a track record of longevity/weatherproofness with
 you or are you just trying it out?
 3) On dissassembly and reassembly elsewhere - if this is a hub and
 strut unit, where does one break the shell when its time to take it
 down, and what's the general procedure at reassembly if one want's a
 sealed roof again and reasonable moisture barrier for the insulation?
 Any particular fasteners best - drywall screws, bolts, lag bolts...?
   I'll be interested in your photos.
 Cheers      -Dan G. >>

        The compound insulation consist of Reflectix reflective bubble 
insulation combined with Cellutex board insulation installed between the 
framing and the sheathing.  The Reflectix has an R-15 in the summertime down 
direction and the 3/4" Cellutex has an R-8 value when properly installed.  A 
typical installation is shown under the "upgraded fabrication" link at:   
http://www.hometown.aol.com/dometruss 

    The Peel & Seal has been around awhile but my experience has been limited 
to around 5 years.  It goes on easily, has a factory warrantee of 10 years, 
and I have experienced no leaks and expect none.  I also expect that it will 
last a lot longer than the warrantee.  
      It is a flexable lightweight roofing with a sticky backing which is 
lined with waxed paper which must be removed to install.  It generally comes 
in white, silver, or grey with the silver being the best in reflecting the 
solar heat and therefore having the longest longevity and energy efficient 
attributes.
   
   The structure is a paneled dome with the flexable roofing encapsulating 
the sides of the panels, therefore sealing the sheathing and insulation.  The 
panels are simply bolted together and for a more permanent roof, 6" Peel & 
Seal stripping is used to cover the seams with the top edge of the seam being 
further sealed with 35 year clear caulk.  What I used for a more temporary 
solution was to seal the seams was use Asto Foil aluminum tape.  It cost 
around $5.00 for a 500 foot roll.  I also sealed the top edge of the tape 
with the clear caulk.  By using the Asto-Foil tape, it is much easier to 
break open the seam and dissasemble and you don't wind up with a raised edge. 
 JMR was sent a photo of the finished dome for the domehome WEB site, but he 
is on a business trip and won't post the photo until next Wednesday.  I have 
photos of the framework without sheathing being assembled during the first 
field test.  It is on the /dometruss WEB site under the 14' dome link.   The 
bolts used for connecting the panels were 3/8" , 16 thread, 4 1/2" bolts.  I 
used 3" coated deck screws for holding the individual framed panels together 
and 2 1/2" coated deck screws to hold the sheathing to the framing.   Bob 




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